18K Vermeil Must de Cartier Tank PM Burgundy Dial Watch

Our Perspective:

Introduced in the late 1970s, the Must de Cartier collection marked a turning point for the maison, making iconic Cartier designs accessible to a wider audience without sacrificing its unmistakable aesthetic. Crafted in vermeil, a thick layer of 18K gold over sterling silver, the Must line offered the same timeless proportions and elegance as its solid gold counterparts at a more approachable price point. This Petite Model (PM) Tank measures 20mm x 28mm and 6.5mm thick, remaining one of the most wearable and classically proportioned Tank sizes ever produced.

The highlight of this example is its striking burgundy dial, one of the most sought-after and recognizable Must de Cartier configurations. Free from numerals and finished in a rich lacquer that shifts beautifully under changing light, the dial allows the iconic Tank silhouette to take center stage. Paired with its original matching Cartier strap and signed buckle, manual winding movement, and beautifully preserved case, this is an exceptionally honest example of one of Cartier's most collectible and enduring designs.

Condition Report:

Case: Medium scratches and small dings throughout. Light plating wear from a small dent near 7 o'clock lug (circled in photos). Minor discoloration on crown. Deep hallmarks on case.

Strap/Bracelet: Original burgundy lizard Cartier strap and gold-tone pin buckle shows medium signs of wear throughout. Light plating loss on pin buckle. Fits a maximum wrist size of 7".

Dial/Crystal/Hands: Dial is in well-preserved condition with light surface scratches and signs of age throughout, without any spidering or cracks. Crystal has minor scratches throughout, mostly concentrated near the center.

Movement: Manual-winding Cartier caliber 78-1 winds, sets and runs but a service is recommended for accurate timekeeping.

Included: Watch only, no box or papers

Any watch sold by us can be serviced upon request by our watchmaker. Pricing and lead time may vary, please contact for more details.

Condition Grade: 8.5/10